It is true right that just using water would be a terrible idea in terms of corrosion to the engine and I should go back to the green coolant mix to offset that problem? Any input would be appreciated.
TEST STRIPS FOR EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT HOW TO
Evans never did figure out how to keep these cars cool at racing speeds. All coolant is re-usable for a period of time. Sooooo, I have to assume since nothing other than oil is in the pan, no funny smoke was coming out the tailpipe, and I know it was parked with the Evans filled, that the stuff ended up evaporating? Is it safe to assume since these old cars are non pressurized and the radiator cap is just that, a cap, that I can expect more of the same from using this product, just as I would with a 50/50 mix? If that's the case it clearly has no real money savings as whether I drive it or it sits, I will lose some degree of the product and at $45 a gallon, it ain't cheap. The evans coolant will also make you engine run a little warmer because the heat transfer is less then water/antifeeze mixture. Started the car, temp almost immediately dropped and ran fine with no hot smell.
TEST STRIPS FOR EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT PLUS
I caved and ended up putting in a good gallon plus of water to bring the radiator full. Shut it down and then checked the radiator and sure enough, no coolant. Got about a mile or so to the in laws and the temp gauge was pegged and I could smell hot. Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 15-25☌, versus straight water with Water Wetter.
Did not check for coolant as under the car when I pushed it away from the wall showed zero leaks of any kind and didn't give it any thought anyway. To summarize: Engines can run 45-60☌ hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Waterless products. I did check the dipstick beforehand, clean oil at the correct level. Took it out yesterday to blow out the cobwebs.
5% is supposed to be the max in terms of water content. Drained it first including the block, filled the system, ran it to mix it up, drained that out since it still had water in it according to the spectroscope I bought to confirm the degree of water present, boiled the mixture to remove as much water as possible, refilled the system and repeated the last steps several times until I got a 3% reading which was as good as I could get. It's been about a year since I flushed out my 31 Olds and took a long day to get it to the correct almost 100% product in the system. I bit on the ads promotion in terms of an overall more economical way long term to use this stuff.
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